Law, Partially

Ambitions to write entries in every city have crashed. Entries by region? Failed. As we wind down the first half of the trip and leave Italy for points west, maybe I can succeed in documenting our adventure by country. If India travelled to France, Italy would result. Just like India, Italy is even jammed onto the southside of a continent. And just like in India, we enjoyed our adventure, though some days we were dirty and tired of it, and just like in France, we ate very well and went to museums. In Florence I felt like I was in India, often walking in streets (few practical sidewalks), along with cars driven by the unsympathetic, breathing in exhaust fumes, amidst crumbling old buildings and throngs of people. India is of course more crowded, dirtier, and poorer, but sewer smells often linger in those medieval Italian city centers as they do in India's more crowded neighborhoods. Like in India, sometimes I'm amazed that Italy works at all. But it works, and it is a great ...

We hoped Rome would be the best; we feared it would be the worst. Rome is fascinating. I wanted to see the ruins from the empire we've learned so much about: from seventh grade social studies to Gladiator. I wanted to drink espresso in bustling cafes on the Via Veneto like Marcello Mastroianni in La Dolce Vita . I wanted wine, carbonara, cacio e pepe, and square pizza slices. I wanted to learn what happened to Rome between its sacking by the German gothic hordes in the 400 and 500s and its founding as the capital of united Italy in the 1870s (a silent period, apparently, in our textbooks). How can this ancient city function as a modern capital of one of the wealthiest countries in the world? I have travelled so many places but not yet ever to Rome, though Christine had visited before. Rome in 1960, as presented by Federico Fellini and starring Marcello Mastroianni and Anouk Aimée in La Dolce Vita . Watching the film as a young man in college, I was struck by how cool Rome l...